A commentary on water scarcity, these “puddles” invite the viewer to engage physically with the piece, cleverly demanding a focus shift away from the vistas.įor most visitors, the principal draws to AlUla are the heritage sites and the contemporary art scene, of which a cornerstone is the Desert X AlUla biannual show. Notably, the piece by Manal Aldowayan entitled “Now You See Me, Now You Don’t” is comprised of a group of small black circular trampolines tucked between the mountainous rocks. The hotel kept some of the installations from that exhibition, creating an atmosphere of surreal playfulness throughout the property. The Habitas AlUla grounds were the inaugural location of Desert X AlUla in 2020, the site-specific contemporary art exhibition that originated in California’s Coachella Valley. I was glad I’d packed my drapey scarf and tunics in my carry-on. It was a transition I hadn’t anticipated but that now seemed obvious. Toward the end of the 13.5-hour flight from New York to Riyadh, I observed many women who had boarded in leggings and sweatshirts pull out their abayas in preparation for landing. Though I was mocked by my sister for my color choice (she sent me screenshots of the “Sex and the City” movie, featuring the cast riding camels in full Patricia Field fashion), I figured I would just stick with my neutral linen garb if the red felt totally inappropriate in situ. Traditional black abayas are available online in the United States (mostly in itchy-looking synthetic blends), but I ended up purchasing a few hand-dyed monochrome tie-dye tunic garments instead, and a long-sleeve linen dress (albeit in red) from Etsy. While not obligated to wear an abaya, I was unsure whether my existent wardrobe would provide enough modesty for my own social comfort. While men and women are still expected to dress modestly - and, as I discovered, still mostly do - foreign women are no longer required to wear the hijab or the traditional abaya, the (historically black) floor-length long-sleeved robe worn atop clothing. The most conservative apparel mandates for women have been lifted as well. With the explicit aim of broadening tourism, the country now allows live music concerts, unchaperoned women in public, and women drivers. I soon learned that with the launch and successful implementation of Vision 2030, Saudi Arabia’s multipronged initiative to wean the country off its reliance on fossil fuels and diversify its economy, Saudi Arabia has been undergoing rapid social change. I also wondered what it would be like traveling in Saudi Arabia as a woman. Would I require a male chaperone to move about? What would I need to wear? And most urgently, could I be sure to bring him back some Arabian oils? My husband was intrigued and mildly concerned. After several years of pandemic-dictated sameness, the prospect of journeying into a landscape and culture so different from my own felt compelling - essential, even. When offered the opportunity to travel to Saudi Arabia, I leapt at the chance. Then the wind picks up and I wonder just how long the grains of sand that are swirling at my feet have been doing that dance. It is unlike anywhere I have been before. Some combination of the surrounding mountains and the dampening effect of the desert sand creates an unnerving stillness. Stepping outside onto the Bedouin lounge, my personal outdoor patio, the first thing I notice is the quiet. The hotel room I am staying in is a cabana, built in the desert canyons of the Ashar Valley. While not actually another planet, AlUla, an area in the northwest Medina region of Saudi Arabia, some 7,000 miles from my home in Tennessee, is the most otherworldly landscape I’ve experienced. Thuraya Wellness offers a peaceful lounge space with an alchemy bar, spa treatment rooms, a fitness center, an outdoor wellness agora, and a yoga studio.I WONDER HOW many days it might take for me to get used to opening my eyes and gazing upward at sandstone cliffs towering above, the bases of which start 60 feet from my bed. Named after a star constellation widely used by bedouins to navigate, Thuraya Wellness is where we come to restore and relax. Our dishes infuse Global & Middle Eastern cuisine, using local, fresh ingredients and spices once traded along the incense route, bringing Saudi Arabia’s unique flavors to life. Tama, meaning ‘here and now’ in Aramaic, is where we come together and experience an immersive culinary journey through time. Our villas are sustainably designed to embrace the natural surroundings of Ashar Valley, offering scenic canyon views. Welcome to our sustainable home of wonder in AlUla, an immersive experience where nature inspires creative expression, human connection, and the pursuit of adventure.
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